Clothes made by the German state: German Kriegsmarine Linen Smock

The appeal of vintage clothing is not just its age, but also the atmosphere and culture of the time, as well as the feelings of the makers and people who wore it. I've tried to spell it out as clearly and as clearly as possible.

I hope that this blog will convey at least some of that feeling.

What we would like to introduce to you today is a linen smock that was created under the Nazi regime in the 1940s.

It is believed that this smock was manufactured and issued for only about five years, from 1939 to 1944.

Originally, the amount of equipment intended for the Navy was limited, and it was only provided to a small number of soldiers.

This particular example was made in 1941. It has beautiful, intricate stitching that makes it hard to believe it was made 80 years ago, and is imbued with the idea of it being national equipment.

Although it is a military work uniform, it has a certain refined elegance to it. It is not just "wartime supplies" but rather answers the question "What is military wear?"

This smock was manufactured for the German Navy during World War II as a shipboard service smock.
The year of issue was 1941. It was officially inspected and accepted as an official supply at the Navy Clothing Factory (Bekleidungsamt Wilhelmshaven) in the North Sea naval port of Wilhelmshaven.

The stencil "BAW 41" on the inside is proof that this smock is an official government-issued item. "BA" stands for the clothing factory that inspected and managed military clothing, "W" for Wilhelmshaven, a naval port in the North Sea, and "11 8 41" for the date of manufacture, August 11, 1941. This is not just a mark of ownership, but also proof that the German state strictly controlled quality and standards.

At the time, the Nazi regime's strategy was centered on land warfare, and the navy's military strength was only about one-tenth of that of the army. Furthermore, after the war, most navy uniforms were incinerated or discarded at naval bases, so there are very few remaining.

The fact that such carefully sewn work clothes were provided in such a historical context reflects the attitude of the nation at the time and their thorough commitment to manufacturing.

The material used is undyed natural herringbone linen. Linen is used, which is suitable for work on board ships. It is a quick-drying, durable material with a soft, smooth texture.

While modern linen is produced efficiently using chemical fertilizers and pesticides, the linen of the time was grown slowly using traditional farming methods that used animal manure and lime.

The use of herbicides and pesticides is minimal.

As a result, linen's natural firmness and fullness are well retained, and when exposed to light the twill weave appears three-dimensional and becomes softer and more comfortable over time, creating a unique texture and depth.

In terms of the sewing, bar tacks are used to reinforce the areas where stress is applied, and even the thickness of the thread and the width of the stitching are selected depending on the sewing area. Rather than simply finishing it to be sturdy, the sewing is done by calculating "where the load will be applied."

The placket features low-gloss aluminum buttons to prevent glare on the water, and the buttonholes feature uniform, precise keyhole stitching, maintaining a beauty that is comparable to modern industrial products.

In addition, the hem is equipped with a cotton drawstring to prevent flapping, and the cuffs are equipped with tabs.
Every detail is crafted with meaning.

The materials, construction, reinforcements, seams - everything is made with purpose.
What is most surprising is the fact that clothing with such intricate design concepts was manufactured in such large quantities for military use.

Nowadays, military wear optimized for "disposable" and "mass supply" is mainstream, but it feels like every soldier who wears this linen smock has had careful consideration given to even the invisible parts.

Military uniforms are not simply practical items, but also a source of information that gives us a sense of what a nation values.

At first glance it looks simple and rugged, but it is actually made with great care and honesty.
I feel that the charm of this outfit lies in the details.

It's not just that the stitching is beautiful; it also seems as if the German nation's attitude towards soldiers, the culture of the time, and all of this background are sewn into every corner of this garment.

If you look at vintage clothing from that perspective, perhaps the temperature and scenery you perceive from the clothing will look different.

This linen smock is currently available in our online store.
For photos and size details, please see the product page below.

👉Product page here